Safari So Good

Saturday, the four of us (Hailey’s classmate Holly, Hailey, Michael and I) headed out at 9 am to have a Sorrento “Farm Experience”. We arrived at the lemon and olive orchard and were met by our guide, Claudia. She walked us through the orchard, providing lots of good information about the trees, showing us some that were over 200 years old. They do not use irrigation and she explained that the trees can survive on very little water if you never give them too much. Last year they only had 7 days of rain, but the orchard is covered in lemons!  We then tasted their limoncello and seven flavors of olive oil, accompanied by some wonderful fresh lemonade.  Once we were done with that, we were picked up by scooter trucks!  These are vespas that have a golf cart-like passenger hauler placed on them.  We were taken to the Restaurant and the family who owns the restaurant explained how their Pizze is made.  We donned aprons and rubber gloves and were each given a ball of dough to work into a 12″ Marguerite pizze with sauce, tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, and basil.  It was really fun, they played Italian music and each person had to throw their dough to the person across from them.  Yes, a couple were dropped on the floor.  But they just grabbed another ball of dough and carried on! We had to do it in shifts, but since the pizze’s are cooked for only 2 minutes at 800 degrees, it didn’t take long!  It was delicious.  We were then taken, by the same scooter/carts to the barns, where we met the dairy cows and were schooled on how mozzarella, ricotta, and cacciottine cheese are made.  Claudia made small tomato and basil salads to go with our 3 kinds of cheese sample!  Home made red wine was Included with the pizza and cheese sampling!  It was especially nice to learn that all their products (i.e., orchards, cows and food ingredients) are completely certified organic.  While very informative and fun, it was a very humid hot day, so we were all exhausted when we got back.  It has become increasing clear why the Italians take pausa pranzo (lunch pause) every day!  We have adopted this practice with ease.

Hailey and Holly are both in our room.  They were here with their class until Friday  afternoon and stayed an extra 3 nights with us.  The hotel was completely booked and had been for sometime, so we knew Hailey would be sharing our room the last 3 nights; but Holly was a late addition after we learned she wanted to stay with Hailey.  Hailey asked if it was possible and Michael, being the most generous Grandpa in the world, said yes!  So, here we are, four of us in one tiny Italian hotel room.  Gives new meaning to “the more the merrier”.  Friday night was our first together and it went quite smoothly.  It’s like a co-ed, older/younger slumber party!  Wifi is not great here, and I had trouble downloading pictures, here is what I have so far.  I’ll try to add more later.

Here we are at the lemon orchard.

We tasted limoncello made on site in these cute little glasses!

We rode from the orchard to the restaurant and then to the farm in the little carts built on scooters. The steering is a scooter steering wheel!

Hailey and Holly waiting their turn to throw pizza dough in the air.

Our guide, Claudia – she was so cute.

Here is the pizza I made – so yummy!

A double bed and two twins crammed into an already small room.

On Thursday, we walked to the bus park to catch the tour bus to the Amalfi Coast. We were greeted by a flamboyant (but not in a gay way) gentleman of about 50 who ushered us onto the bus asking where we come from. When we said California, he said, “Oh good, you have some friends back there (gesturing to the back of the bus) from Ohio,” as if the USA is a small town.

We were soon on our way and our tour guide was handing out stickers to put on our shirts so he could identify his group. When he had some paper trash, he told our driver to pull out the small trash can under the dash so he could play ball. He announced he had 3 tries to get the trash ball into the can and counted out loudly as he made each attempt.  He did make it on 3 and we all clapped. The driver put the can back under the dash and our guide, Diego, said “Oh, no, Franco, do not drive, play with me!” This when Franco was trying to maneuver a huge coach through narrow city streets, dodging scooters, cars and tourists! It was at this point that we realized this would not be a typical tour. Throughout the day, he called us family (“OK, Family” “Family, come this way” “Look at this, Family”) and as he told us about the different towns we passed through, he would start by saying, Ah-ten-see-own Family! Attention Family. He was a bit politically incorrect at times (telling off color jokes or saying things like women should not drive), but he was so incredibly charming and absent of any bad intent, and truly funny, that we could not object.

The road down the Amalfi Coast is unbelievable and should not be attempted by tourists in rental cars — male or female! Many times, our driver had to stop to allow a car to back up so the bus could pass without hitting the car, or a person walking on the side of the road, or a scooter rider. It was just crazy. As we got to the coast line, the drop to the ocean was 1,200 to 1,400 feet below. Sometimes, as we went around hairpin curves, I had to close my eyes! We were, literally, inches from the concrete guard rail.  We made 5 stops — first at a ceramic shop and to “make wee wee”; then just past Positano to take pictures; then in Amalfi town for two hours to shop and where we got a side tour by boat to see the coastline from that vantage point; then a lunch stop at Penguino’s; then in Ravello for more shopping and another bathroom break.  It was awesome and, well, just “Wow!”  (Diego said all Americans say “awesome” and “Wow” whenever they see something spectacular!). He told funny stories along the way and told us about his family.  He said when he was younger he played piano in a 5 Star Hotel near Positano for 3 months and one night Sophia Loren came in  (for you youngstars, she was a very beautiful, famous Italian actress) and requested a song.  When he finished playing she came up and kissed him on the cheek!  Later, he mentioned her again and said her first son looks like her deceased husband, but her younger son looks just like him (Diego), saying it was a very potent kiss!

When we left Almafi, we came to a red light and Diego explained that this part of the already narrow road was even narrower for the next two miles and the coaches had to go through one at a time.  The narrow portion was 2 miles long, so we waited about 8 minutes at that light.  Once our turn came to pass through, we stopped for a wonderful lunch at Penguino’s; which consisted of bread, salad, homemade red wine, dessert cake, and a choice of fish, meat or pasta.  It was delicious and only cost 13 Euros.  We sat with a lovely couple from Ireland.

As we headed home, Diego talked about the very hard English words that most Italians try to stay away from.  He said, “If you wonder why I say seashore and not bitch (beach), I tell you because it sounds like bitch.  So when we say, you can lie on the bitch or stand up on the bitch or sometimes the bitch is free but other bitches cost money; well, you can see people get upset.  Same for piss (peace), I say I just want some piss and everyone should work for piss.  Also, tits (teeth) – it is, you have beautiful tits; because we cannot say the word.   And finally, shits (sheets)!  I say, you see the house with the shits on the lines; and people say, why would you have shits on the lines?  So, we just avoid those words!”  Another phrase he kept using was falling down sleeping — mixing falling down drunk with falling asleep.  He said we had to get the driver home before he was falling down sleeping!  Of course, his English was 150% better than my Italian.

We were so exhausted from our day when we got back to Sorrento, we rested in the room for a couple hours, then went to dinner at 8 at a restaurant I spotted the day before.  It was incredible!

I took way too many pictures and had a hard time narrowing them down to just these:

Our second stop, just past Positano, to take pictures.

The super small fruit stand at the stop.

3 vehicles passing on a road not big enough for 2!

There are orchards and gardens on all those terraces.

Here is another shot showing the trees in the orchard.

Looks a little like the Northern California coastline.

Anti-Saracen towers from hundreds of years ago for protecting the coastline. They are now Hotels.

A view of the Amalfi Coast!

This is a natural rock formation of Virgin Mary with a bouquet of flowers – can you see her?

Heading into an s curve!

This is the winding road we had just been on.

Houses and hotels built into the side of the mountains.

Michael enjoying our boat ride.

Pasta with lemon and shrimp – served in a lemon shell. Deliciouso!

Wednesday, we decided to stay in Sorrento and relax. The students headed out at 7 am to visit Napoli and make another attempt to get to the top of Mt. Vesuvias. We started the morning having breakfast in the Hotel at 9:30. We then walked to the train station to see how far away it is, in preparation for our departure Monday, and to make sure we could find it. It’s not far, if you don’t take into consideration how frickin’ humid it is here, even at 10:30 am, and we did find it. We also discovered a lovely, raised community garden. The shaded orchard was a nice respite from the heat. We took a few pictures and walked slowly back to the room to cool off. We went out again for lunch and found some very nice limoncello and looked through a few shops. Then, back again to hang out in our air conditioned room until later in the day.

A cathedral at the end of a “street”

Lots of scooters here. Gas is approx $6 a gallon.

A raised orchard.

The sign explaining the orchard is a community garden.

A mural near the entrance of the community garden.

Michael walking down a long covered area of the garden.

Me walking through the garden.

Lunch begins with Spritzs for each of us – orange liquor, Proseco, and soda water! Yum

An alleyway fruit vendor.

That means “the bus broke” in Italia.  That’s right, our tour bus, full of college students and these grandparents, broke down halfway up Mt. Vesuvius, where we were headed after visiting Pompeii.  The bus driver was doing a great job maneuvering the bus up the steep, windy, narrow road when he stopped to let another huge bus pass.  When he put the bus in gear, it jolted slightly backwards and he quickly put on the brake.  At that time, a warning bell began ringing and a red light blinking.  My best guess is there was a problem with the hydraulics; regardless, the bus was going no further!  After 20 minutes or so of the tour guide and the professor directing traffic around us, at a hairpin turn, and the bus driver exchanging angry words with his company, including the phrase “shove it up your arse” which was overhead; the decision was made to have everyone walk a few hundred feet back down the hill to a small cafe we had just passed.  It was lovely, with umbrellas and a cool breeze moving through the patio where we sat.  We ordered non-alcoholic drinks compliments of the bus company.  As we sat there, a longer and longer line of cars began queuing down the mountain and another bus that could not maneuver around ours, also unloaded their bus and a large group of younger kids joined us at the cafe.  I like college kids a lot better than rowdy, mostly male 12-year-olds!  We waited for a relief bus for over an hour.  It arrived at 4:40 and since we still had a 40 minute ride up the remainder of the mountain, and entrance to Mt. Vesuvias closes at 5 pm, we had no choice but to return to Sorrento.  Oh, well, tomorrow is another day!

This is nothing – often there was also a scooter passing between the vehicles.

Another big bus passes our stalled bus!

The students walk down the road to the cafe you can see on the right.

Hilse and Hailey at the Cafe as we wait for the replacement bus.

We can see the vehicles up the hill stacking up as the reach the corner where our bus broke down.

The girls look at souvenirs as the vender flirts relentlessly with Hailey.

Side Note:  making fun of the Brits here, so if you are easily offended, read no further!  Monday evening, Michael and I were watching one of the few English TV stations, which had a session of Parliament discussing the exit of Britain from the EU.  Every time one of the legislators made a comment (always made very proper and polite, even when strongly disagreeing with someone else’s comment), many other members would say in unison “yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah”.  It sounded ridiculous, mostly because of the way they said it; but also because, well it’s really just ridiculous.  So, the next day when we were stranded at the cafe and the large group of British pre-pubescent boys sat at the table next to us, during a loud discussion, I head several boys say “yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah” exactly like the group of Legislators.  Michael heard it the same time I did and we looked at each other, laughing, and I said “Oh, my gosh, they’re training to be little British legislators”.  It was quite funny, really, but maybe you had to be there.

Today we are joining Hailey’s college group tour to Pompei. This is the city that was destroyed in 79 AC when Mount Vesuvius erupted. At the time the eruption occurred, the city was under construction and it was covered in just a few hours by volcanic lava and ash. People and animals were covered by tons of ash, which killed them immediately. This is an important archeological sight.

The area was uncovered many years later by Italian Archaeologist Guiseppe Fiorelli and continues to be reconstructed today.

The bus ride itself was an experience not to miss. We followed a small winding road not meant to hold two small cars, much less two large buses and a passing scooter (a condition which occurred every few seconds).  Once we arrived in Pompei, we followed the Professor through the ruins and listened to his thorough explanations of the different areas.  Apparently, there were believed to be anywhere from 12,000 – 15,000 people killed when the volcano erupted.  There would have been more deaths, but there had been an earthquake prior to the eruption and many people evacuated at that time.  We saw houses of both poor and rich people.  The difference in residences was like a studio apartment compared to a 7,000 +/- square foot home.  There were no bathrooms or kitchens in the houses.  The government created bathrooms, then charged to use them.  Food was eaten outside as there were no kitchens in the houses. There were brothels and separate rooms for each of the women to provide desired services.

I estimate we walked at least 5 miles and by the time we finished the tour of Pompei, I was literally on my last leg and it was so hot, I had difficulty eating the salad we bought for lunch.  Still, very interesting, especially when you realize this took place almost 2,000 years ago!

Some columns that have been reconstructed.

The colosseum

One of the rooms in the brothel.

Paintings on the walls of the brothel are graphic sex scenes.

More ruins, with Mt. Vesuvias in the background.

A fancy mosaic indicates the house belongs to a wealthy family.

After escaping the afternoon humidity for a couple hours; in the evening, we decided to go back out and see some of the city. Even though it was after 9 pm, we could hear the sounds of many people in the streets below.  It was crazy!  The streets were filled with partiers and families alike – some having their evening meal after the afternoon pauso pranzo (lunch break).  So, we decided to join them.  We walked a few blocks down and found a piazza with a busy restaurant.  We ordered an antipasto plate and drinks; Michael trying Limoncello for the first time.  At the end of the meal, we received a complimentary creme de limoncello, which was strong, but delicious.  Some photos:

A shop keeper with lots of lemon products.

A busy restaurant in a nearby piazza that we could not resist.

Drinks and bread!

Antipasto

Views around the piazza.

People enjoying the finally cool evening.

Beautiful!

Beginning Saturday morning, I traveled through or to Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, Washington DC, Switzerland and Italy!  By the time we arrived at our destination (Sorrento, Italy), it was late morning on Sunday.

We board a small commuter plane to take us from Zurich to Naples.

By the time we arrived at the Hotel Astoria in Sorrento, we were exhausted. We settled in and and decided to rest/nap for a couple hours. We then went out for a late lunch and walked the streets until the humidity drenched us. Tomorrow afternoon, Hailey and her classmates arrive in Sorrento! We were excited and delighted to find the student tour group is staying in the same hotel as we are! The Hotel desk clerk was also thrilled to learn our granddaughter was in the group, thereby reducing the chances that we would be disturbed by a bunch of college students staying in this hotel with us.

The Astoria Hotel

The piazza outside our Hotel.

Another view of the piazza.

Michael enjoying our late lunch.

Uncle Tony’s restaurant near our Hotel.

Cannelloni for the first course, fish second and cake for dessert (including tiramisu)!

Land is scarce, so all available space is used, including alleyways.

A view of the coastline.

A Mother and Child sculpture.

Michael and me at Dulles airport in Wash DC.

Here we are at the Dulles airport waiting to board our plane to Zurich, then Italy.  We are heading to the Amalfi Coast to visit Granddaughter #1, who is currently studying abroad.